Ever thought that Andalucia is just the high-rise beach resorts of the Costa del Sol? We head inland to discover some real Spanish culture and history in this incredible region
Introduction
Andalucia is the southernmost of the autonomous communities in Spain. It is also the most populous and second largest of these communities. It is perhaps most famous (at least from a British perspective) for its fabulous Mediterranean coastline – in particular the tourist resorts that stretch along the sandy beaches of the Costa del Sol. For good reason, the area has remained a firm holiday favourite all year-round ever since intensive development began there over 50 years ago.
However, the region as a whole is so much more than just suntans, high-rise hotels and sandy beaches. Venture a little inland and you are greeted with stunning, varied and often unspoilt countryside, sitting alongside whitewashed hilltop towns and cities housing grand, historical palaces, many of which retain elements of Moorish influence and design that reflect the region’s turbulent history.
Looking to explore even further afield? Then take a look at this 3 weeks in Spain itinerary.
While there are almost too many places to pick from in Andalucia, these are perhaps our favourite 5, from when we toured much of the region in our campervan with our 3 young children back in late 2019 and early 2020. It’s an area of Spain that is bursting with culture and history and definitely worthy of closer attention.
#1 Seville
Blessed with grand historical palaces, as well as beautiful landscaped gardens, Seville (or Sevilla in Spanish) is the capital city of Andalucia and undoubtedly one of the jewels in the crown of the region. It is located towards the west of the province and can be reached from either of the port cities of Cadiz or Malaga, the latter of which is also home to the region’s largest airport. If you’re trying to reach the city from the coast, see this guide on how to get to the beach from Seville.
Originally founded by the Romans, the city has changed hands several times through the ages, from Moorish occupiers from the south, up to its recapture by the Catholic Crown of Castile, who utilised the city as a gateway for moving goods towards transatlantic trade routes. As such, the city’s wealth and cultural influence flourished.
Today, the city is home to no less than 3 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, as well as a lively bar and restaurant scene. It’s a great place to explore and soak in the atmosphere that, despite the steady influx of tourists, remains for the most part authentically Spanish.
Things to do in Seville
Alcázar of Seville
The Alcázar of Seville is a royal palace complex that still houses the Spanish Royal Family when they are staying in the city. The palace was constructed by the Christian King Peter of Castile, on the site of a former Moorish residential fortress that was destroyed during the Christian conquest of 1248. Its intricate geometric designs and manicured gardens in a variety of styles are the basis for its World Heritage Site status and are a pleasure to explore. Expect to allow a few hours to do it justice. Tickets can be bought on the day but in busy times it is advisable to pre-book a time slot online, as entrance numbers are limited.
Adjacent to the Alcázar are the Cathedral and General Archive of the Indies, the other two designated UNESCO sites.
Plaza de España
A landmark building with a slim, attractive semi-circular lake in front of it and water fountain. It is possible to rent small rowing boats on the lake, which is a fun activity to do (especially with children). Behind the plaza is the Parque de María Luisa, an extensive public park with a network of pathways to explore, as well as children’s playgrounds.
These are just 2 suggestions out of the many things to do in Seville.
Where to eat in Seville
Seville has no shortage of great places to eat, with tapas restaurants prominent all over the city. There are plenty of decent options around the historic city centre but, to escape the tourists, head to the neighbourhood behind the Parque de María Luisa. Plato Plato offers some delicious and inventive tapas options.
#2 Córdoba
Steeped in history and with some unique architecture, Córdoba does not disappoint. As the third most populated city in Andalucia, there is plenty to discover. Situated to the east of Seville, it shares a similar history. Originally a Roman settlement (temple columns still stand in the city centre), Córdoba became a renowned centre for education and learning during subsequent periods of Muslim rule, growing to become the third largest city in all of Europe at the time, before the Christian conquest in the 13th century.
Home to many notable examples of Moorish architecture, Córdoba has an impressive four UNESCO World Heritage Sites, giving the city the proud claim of having more than anywhere else in the world.
Things to do in Córdoba
Mezquita-Cathedral
Córdoba’s original UNESCO site (since 1984), the Mezquita-Cathedral is now the city’s primary Catholic cathedral. Prior to this however, the building was first constructed as a grand mosque during the 10th century, complete with beautiful internal decoration. Following the Christian conquest, the building was only modified slightly to become a Christian cathedral. This gives the interior a truly unique feel. Tickets are required to enter and can be purchased in advance, which is advisable at busy times.
The Roman Bridge
Originally built by the Romans in the 1st century BC, the city’s grand old bridge remained the only river crossing for the next 2000 years. Having been reconstructed several times over the years, the majority of the current structure dates back to Moorish works that took place in the 8th century. It makes for a very grand and impressive entrance into the historic city centre. The river banks around the bridge are also a magnet for informal street performers and entertainers. Our children enjoyed playing with huge bubbles there during our visit.
Where to eat in Córdoba
Like in Seville, there are no shortage of places to stop for a drink or a bite to eat, with tapas and Andalucian specialties on offer all over. For an atmospheric experience, head to the grand enclosed Plaza de la Corredera.
#3 Granada
Sitting at the foot of the majestic Sierra Nevada mountains in Eastern Andalucia, is the city of Granada. Following Iberian, Roman and Visigoth rule, the city grew to become a prominent Muslim city as the capital of the Emirate of Granada, the last remaining Muslim-ruled state in the Iberian Peninsula. It wasn’t until 1492 that the city was finally conquered by Catholic Monarchs.
Granada’s location is unusual in that you can be sat on a nearby sunny beach in the morning, before skiing in the mountains in the afternoon! Inside the city itself, the historic centre is a maze of winding streets and a collage of architectural styles that are a pleasure to explore on foot – though don’t be tempted to try and drive a car in!
Things to do in Granada
The Alhambra
The Alhambra is a hilltop palace and fortress complex that remains one of Spain’s premier tourist attractions. It is one of the best preserved examples of historic Islamic architecture anywhere in the world. The building of the complex was started in 1248, and it has been modified and added to ever since. The site is enormous, so expect to allow several hours for a visit. Bought tickets are required to enter. As well as beautiful decoration to admire, there are also great views down to the city below.
Sierra Nevada Mountains
Although outside of the city itself, the mountains are easily reached by car and can be visited for a day trip. Standing at over 3000m at their highest, the tops are consistently snow covered, despite their southern latitude. As well as an extensive ski area with a good selection of lifts, there is also a fun little snow park just outside the main town, where sledges and inner tubes can be ridden, as well as a metal track ‘Russian’ sledge run. It’s great fun if visiting with kids.
Where to eat in Granada
The old city has a pleasantly bohemian vibe, with lots of small bars and eateries clustered around the winding streets and courtyard squares. There are plenty of independent places to choose from, with a strong North African influence still in evidence. For some tasty and great value tapas, head to La Sitarilla, set in an historic redbrick building with painted murals.
#4 Ronda
Towards the south of Andalucia, in the hills to the north of Marbella, sits the town of Ronda. There is evidence of settlement in the area going back as far as the Neolithic Age, before the current town was first established by Celts in the 6th century BC. The town then changed hands like others in the region, from Romans to Muslims, before being conquered by Catholics in the 15th century. Following the final defeat of Muslim rule in all of Andalucia, Ronda became a mountain refuge for Muslims looking to escape persecution elsewhere.
Ronda is set spectacularly either side of a deep river chasm that has cut through the steep-sided rock. This position has led to the construction of a series of impressive stone bridges that span the gorge.
Things to do in Ronda
Puente Nuevo
Ronda is all about its 3 bridges. There is the Puente Romano (or Roman Bridge, also known as the Puente Arabe, or Arabic Bridge), the Puente Viejo (or Old Bridge), and most impressively, the Puente Nuevo (or New Bridge). Despite its name, the bridge was constructed a long time ago (back between 1751 and 1793), and stands an impressive 120m above the canyon floor. It is without doubt one of the most spectacular sights to see in all of Andalucia.
Casa Del Rey Moro
Despite being named and styled after Moorish occupants, this house and garden that hugs the cliff side was constructed long after the end of Muslim rule. It still provides an attractive place to explore, and includes an historic and unusual water mine feature.
Where to eat in Ronda
For the best dining view in town, head to one of the restaurants that have outside terraces overlooking the Puente Nuevo. Casa Santa Pola is one such place, offering a traditional Spanish menu.
#5 El Rocío
Located in the far west of Andalucia, El Rocío is somewhat of a ‘wildcard’ pick for this list. Think American ‘Wild West’, but in mainland Spain. Saloon-style wooden buildings sit either side of unpaved streets of sand, while horses outnumber cars as the local mode of transport of choice. It’s a truly peculiar place and well worth visiting if you’re looking for somewhere out of the ordinary.
Things to do in El Rocío
Hermitage of El Rocío
The Hermitage of El Rocío is the name given to the iconic church in the middle of town. Reconstructed several times through the ages, building of the current design began in 1961. The church is home to a venerated carved wooden statue, the Virgin of El Rocío. Due to this, the site is the destination of an annual Catholic pilgrimage that brings up to a million people to the town each year on the second day of Pentecost.
Parque Nacional de Doñana
The Parque Nacional de Doñana (or Doñana National Park) is an extensive area of low density woodland adjacent to El Rocio. Originally created as a hunting estate, the park is now home to a range of interesting flora and fauna. There are also large seasonal wetlands that attract a huge variety of wading and migrating birds, including iconic flamingos. Being just outside El Rocío, the best way to see the park’s network of dirt tracks is of course on horseback, with tours available from in El Rocío. For anyone with small children or not wanting to ride, there is the possibility of taking a horse-drawn carriage ride.
In Summary
Andalucia is one of the most varied and interesting regions of Spain. Its favourable climate and long, sandy beaches have long made it a favourite for foreign holidaymakers looking for sun, sea and sand and sangria. For an experience that feels more authentically Spanish however, venturing inland to explore some of the settlements and landscapes of the interior is well worth the effort. The history, culture and gastronomy of inland Andalucia will be sure to leave a lasting impression.
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