The best of Chefchaouen: The Blue City

“Looking for something, sir?” This is a question you can expect to hear a lot when visiting Chefchaouen (sometimes just called ‘Chaouen’), a beautiful blue city in the Rif Mountains of Northwest Morocco. What was being offered was cannabis hashish, known locally as kief. In fact, half of all the World’s cannabis hashish is rumoured to be produced in the farms that surround Chefchaouen. No wonder then, that there is plenty for sale wherever you go.

However, if that isn’t your thing, it shouldn’t put you off visiting. The other thing that the city is famous for are the blue painted walls that decorate the houses, buildings and narrow lanes that wind their way up the hillside of the old town. This makes Chefchaouen easily the prettiest place that we visited anywhere in Morocco, during our 1 month in the country. Whatever your reason for coming, it’s a beautifully quaint, interesting and laid-back city to visit, and definitely worth including in any tour of Morocco.

Background

Chefchaouen was founded in the 15th century as a fortress town to help in the fight against Portuguese invaders. It was later settled by Moors and Jews in the Middle Ages, before more recently coming under Spanish rule in 1920 as part of Spanish Morocco. The city was finally returned when Morocco gained independence in 1956.

There is no definitive answer as to why the walls are painted blue. Theories range from the practical: that the colour keeps away mosquitos, to the spiritual: that the blue symbolizes the sky and heaven, to the rather mundane: that it was only painted blue to attract tourists. Whatever the real reason (or combination of reasons), the colour goes a long way to help create a picture-perfect visitor experience and definitely singles the city out from other places in Morocco.

Nowadays, its close proximity to the port of Tangier (approx. 2-3 hours drive away) and the Spanish enclave of Cueta, have made the city a popular tourist destination. A long time backpacker favourite, the city has tried to broaden its appeal and now welcomes visitors of all kinds, particularly from Spain. However, be prepared to drive along some winding, mountain roads on your approach to the city.

As for us, we were staying a few days with our 3 small children, on our way back to the port at Tangier at the end of our tour of Morocco in our Classic Hymer motorhome. It was the last stop on our itinerary and I’m pleased to say it didn’t disappoint.

What to do in Chefchaouen

Explore the Old Town

The winding, narrow blue lanes of the old town make for wonderfully atmospheric surroundings to explore. There are photo opportunities to be found around every corner. It is easy to spend a day or two simply wandering around and taking in all the sights and sounds. The city is laid out spreading up the hillside and generally gets more attractive the higher up the hill you get.

As a downside, all these hills means that exploring the city will be difficult for anybody with reduced mobility. We found it hard enough on all the stairs with a pushchair! Something to bear in mind. If you keep heading downhill and then don’t fancy the walk back up, low cost taxis can be hired to drive you back up at the end.

Shop for Souvenirs or Gifts

Chefchaouen is a centre for local handicrafts. Colourful woven wool clothing and carpets are particular local specialities. Prices also tend to be quite favourable for the most part, when compared to some of the larger cities like Marrakesh or Fes (still be prepared to haggle for a good price though).

Lower down the hill you find the medina (market) area, that services both tourists and the local population alike. Expect to find the full range of colourful goods that you would typically find in any Moroccan market place. The further up the hill you venture, the more the style of shops changes to gift shops and informal stalls aimed more at tourists. There are so many beautiful things on offer – be sure to grab some gifts or souvenirs before you move on.

Trekking

The Rif Mountains around Chefchaouen make for great countryside for trekking in and exploring. There are some spectacular viewpoints that can be reached on walks that use the city as a starting point. Look out locally for details of available routes or else take a local guide along with you if unsure.

One easy walk that anyone can do is up to the Spanish Mosque that overlooks the city from the opposite hillside. Interestingly, despite its name, it was never actually used as a mosque. It does make a lovely viewpoint though, and is easily reached along a well-trodden path. It is a particular favourite for people to congregate at for sunset views back over the striking blue city below – something that should not be missed.

Cannabis (or Kief)

Despite its international notoriety for cannabis hashish, it should be remembered that cannabis remains illegal in Morocco. However, the strictness of enforcement of this law varies considerably around the country. It is pretty much entirely tolerated in Chefchaouen, so expect to see people smoking it in the streets and cafe terraces. This never felt dangerous or threatening though during our visit, so shouldn’t put you off. If anything, we found it gave the place a very friendly and relaxed atmosphere, that could rival anywhere in the World.

Road-blocks surrounding the city serve as a warning to anyone thinking of taking the city’s most famous export away with them however. So be warned.

For anyone wanting to experience a more authentic encounter with the local cannabis industry, it is possible to arrange a visit to a kief farm. This potentially provides a fascinating insight into the production methods and history of cultivation in the area, often carried out by multi-generational family farmers who know of nothing else. Trips can be arranged with local guides from the Spanish Mosque who can walk you up into the hills for a visit. It is something I was interested to see myself, but decided (I think wisely in the end) against it as I didn’t fancy dragging my 3 small children all the way with me!

Where to Eat in Chefchaouen

There are plenty of options for places to eat in Chefchaouen (as you’d expect from a city of its size). The focal point for dining centres around the lively central square. If you’re lucky you might even get some street performers in the square to entertain you in the evening while you eat, as we did on our visit. Numerous cafes and restaurants line the square, all offering similar menus of pretty average food. One that stands out as being a cut above the rest is the excellent Sofia Restaurant, serving up delicious, home-cooked Moroccan food.

Where to Stay in Chefchaouen

To service the ever-increasing tourist demand (particularly in the peak summer months), the city now has over 200 hotels on offer for visitors. For somewhere that is a bit different and allows for an escape from the city (although with a handy interconnecting bus), try the relaxing rural retreat of Dar Wadada. It comes complete with beautiful rooms and mountain views aplenty.

If travelling in a camper (like we were), the city campsite (Camping Azila) is a pretty decent place to stay. It is perched right on top of a hill above the old town, so enjoys nice views and a cooling breeze. A short walk away is a small park with children’s playground. The old town is also easily accessible on foot from the campsite, though be prepared for a steep uphill climb if walking back. The only downside when we visited was cold showers, but otherwise I’d recommend it for a short stay.

In Summary

Whatever your reasons for visiting, Chefchaouen makes for a lovely city to experience. There may not be sufficient attractions to keep you there for an extended stay, but visiting for a few days should definitely be included in any tour of Morocco. Its pretty blue streets and houses are unlike anywhere else you’ll visit in the country and really make the city stand out as a tourist destination.

While famous for being at the centre of the Moroccan cannabis industry, this does not alone define the city or entirely dominate the tourist experience. It is there if you want it, but there are plenty of other things to do if you don’t. I went with my 3 small children and found the city to be very friendly, safe and welcoming. I never felt out of place visiting as a family. There is something for everyone.

Sadly, for us, this was the last place that we visited on our 1 month tour of Morocco. Having travelled to all corners, the sights, sounds and smells of the country have left a lasting impression on us. It’s one of the places that we’d definitely like to go back to. Hopefully some day we’ll get the chance.

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• Author Details

Children of Wanderlust Administrator

We are Rachel & John, parents from the UK with 4 small children. After persuing separate jobs for many years, including being an experienced science teacher, we have now moved to Spain for a fresh challenge. We have always had a passion for travel and exploration. Nowadays, that means bringing our 4 children, Savannah (9), Aurora (7), Easton (5) and Tiago (3) along with us. This oftens means taking a road trip in our beloved vintage camper, touring all corners of Europe and Morocco. We hope that you enjoy reading about our family adventures all over the world.

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