Wanting to experience some of what Iceland has to offer beyond Reykjavik? We tour the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, finding some of the country’s finest natural wonders
Introduction
Snæfellsnes is Iceland’s smallest national park, consisting of a 90km long peninsula that protrudes out from the west of the country. Its incredible diversity of natural landscapes have earned the peninsula the nickname of ‘Iceland in miniature’, due to the range of attractions that can be seen all in one place – from snowy mountains and towering volcanoes, to rugged coastlines, caves, waterfalls, geological features and quaint, sleepy fishing villages. As well as the variety on land, the sea is also full of marine life, providing opportunities for sustainable whale watching amongst other things. Many of the attractions on the peninsula are accessible to both intrepid adventurers and casual day-trippers alike, and are all just waiting to be explored.
For the kind of things to expect, take a look at these beautiful landscape photos of Iceland.
The peninsula’s isolated location and darkness also make it a perfect place for viewing the winter nighttime displays of the Aurora Borealis, with some beautiful locations for photographing the Northern Lights. If you’re keen to see them for yourself, you should take a look at this roundup of how and where to see the Northern Lights in Iceland, as well as checking out some of these suggestions for places to view the Northern Lights in Iceland.
Iceland, as a country, is full of surprises. We have always discovered new things that no one told us about Iceland, wherever we have travelled there. There are so many things to do in Iceland. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula remains one of my very favourite places in all of the country though, so if you’re planning a visit any time soon, be sure to add it to your Iceland travel itinerary – you won’t be disappointed. Here are my suggestions for some of the best places to visit once you get there.
Getting to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula
The good news is that the Snæfellsnes Peninsula can be reached in only around a 2 hour drive from Reykjavik, making it perfect for a day trip or short break from the capital. Head north on Route 1 towards Borganes, taking the long Hvalfjardargöng tunnel along the way. An alternative to the tunnel is to take the scenic route right around the Hvalfjörður fjord – it’s a beautiful drive but expect it to add a lot of time onto the journey.
When in Borganes, if you have time, don’t miss the excellent Settlement Center museum. It uses creative historical exhibits, inter-weaved with local myth and legends, to provide a really interesting insight into the history of Iceland as a country. It also has a great restaurant if you’re looking for a lunch stop. From Borganes, continue along Road 54 to reach the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
The Gerðuberg Cliffs
Comprising of a long stretch of tall basalt columns protruding from the hillside, the Gerðuberg Cliffs form an interesting geological feature that greet you as you first make your way onto the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. An easy walk across barren lava plains from the road allows you to get up close and even climb upon these giant geometric stone pillars. The tallest stand proud at up to 14m high. A climb to the top on a clear day also provides some great views, for a taste of what is to come.
Bjarnarhöfn
Leaving Road 54 and turning onto Road 56 takes you up to the northern coast of the peninsula, to the harbour town of Bjarnarhöfn. While it is pleasant enough for a quick stroll around, the town’s main attraction is the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum. The museum is dedicated to the Greenland Shark and the significance of this species to the earliest Icelandic colonisers. Specifically, how they managed to turn an animal whose cold water adaptations rendered it poisonous to humans, into something that can be eaten. This is the famous putrified shark, perhaps Iceland’s most notorious dish and perennial tourist favourite.
After a fascinating guided tour that shows all the stages in this 6 month process, there is a chance to taste some at the end. I am honestly not exaggerating when I say I have never tasted anything worse, anywhere. Ever. Think a sponge dipped in ammonium and you’re somewhere close to describing it. Although this is now largely just retained as a source of amusement for locals to feed to unsuspecting tourists, it is still treasured by some. I met a local guide down near Vik who told me his family still enjoy eating it at Christmas time as it reminds him of his childhood. Never underestimate the power of sentimentality it seems!
If you fancy sharing this dubious pleasure with loved ones back home, you can even buy some of the shark to take away. Alternatively, for gift ideas that are likely to be better received, take a look at these 10 perfect Icelandic souvenirs.
Mount Kirkjufell
After having had your fill (ha!) of putrified shark, following the road west brings you past the impressive Mount Kirkjufell (meaning Church Mountain). It’s a very iconic and much photographed mountain, that is surrounded on 3 sides by the sea and rises over 450m above the surrounding shoreline. Serious hikers can take on the steep ascent, but for most the view from below is sufficient. Nearby is the small but beautiful Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall.
Svörtuloft Lighthouse
Painted in a bold orange colour, the Svörtuloft Lighthouse is a striking structure that stands out from the surrounding landscape. It stands proud at 13m high, looking west from on top of a dominating stretch of jet black lava cliffs that run along the tip of the peninsula. The small road down to the lighthouse can be tricky to drive along in winter, if the weather is bad.
Snæfellsjökull Glacier
Covering the peak of an active volcano at the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, the Snæfellsjökull Glacier rises high to almost 1500m above the sea level below. This makes it the dominating landscape feature of the entire peninsula. The volcano is most famous for being the inspiration for Jules Verne’s story ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ (1864), where the volcano marked the entrance to the tunnel to the Earth’s core. A hike to the top offers breathtaking views over the entire peninsula – but shouldn’t be attempted by inexperienced climbers, especially in winter or bad weather.
Djúpalónssandur Beach
The black sand beaches at Djúpalónssandur and Dritvík are two of the few places where the shoreline can be easily accessed on foot. As such, they have a long history of being used as the launching point for fishing vessels from the area. As you approach the beach at Djúpalónssandur, several large atlas stones are arranged in a line. These are rumoured to be the exact same stones used by fishermen of old as a test of strength. The stones increase in size and weight along the line. The first weighs 23kg, then 54kg, then 100kg, and lastly the biggest weighs a mighty 154kg. Apparently you weren’t allowed to join the fishing crews unless you could at least lift the 54kg stone.
The beach at Djúpalónssandur is also home to the spooky remains of a British fishing ship, The Epine GY7, shipwrecked off the coast in 1948. The rusting metal shards of the ship are left on the beach as a monument to the sailors who lost their lives. A 1km walk along the coast from Djúpalónssandur brings you the small bay of Dritvík beach, once home to the largest seasonal fishing fleet in Iceland. The dramatic lava coastline and intriguing history make these beaches one of the real highlights of a trip around the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Vatnshellir Cave
Located close to Djúpalónssandur, is the lava cave at Vatnshellir. This cave system was formed in an ancient volcanic eruption and is full of strange lava features, as well as stalactites and stalagmites. Visitors can descend a winding staircase down into the dark depths of the cave below.
Búðakirkja and Hotel Búdir
Continuing the drive around the tip and then back east along the southern side of the peninsula, takes you first past the charming little fishing villages of Hellnar and Arnarstapi, before arriving at the iconic black church of Búðakirkja. This pretty little wooden church stands out against the dramatic surrounding landscape, whether that be the greens of summer or whites of winter.
Next to the church is the elegant Hotel Búdir. Furnished in a hunting lodge style, the rooms and suites of the hotel offer what is undoubtedly the finest overnight accommodation anywhere on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. If staying in winter, the hotel staff are on hand to offer a wake up call at any time of night should the Northern Lights make an appearance, so you can rest assured of never missing a show. The renowned hotel restaurant also serves up some of the finest locally sourced Icelandic cuisine, that honestly is delicious. A stay doesn’t come cheap, but if you’re looking for a treat for overnight, you won’t find much better.
For anyone visiting on a smaller budget, take a look at these great money saving tips for your holiday to Iceland.
In Summary
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula comprises of an incredible diversity of Iceland’s natural wonders, all gathered together in one place. It’s proximity from Reykjavik also makes it perfect for a short trip for anyone wanting to experience some different aspects of Icelandic history and life, outside of the capital. Its rugged and windswept environment forms a dramatic backdrop for any tour around the periphery of this magical peninsula. It’s the perfect place to experience some of Iceland’s unusual landscapes, often in blissful isolation. This remote and dark setting also makes it ideal for viewing the Aurora Borealis, for anyone lucky enough to experience a display of this unforgettable winter night sky phenomenon.
Whether arriving during the eternal days of summer, or for the long winter nights, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula has plenty to offer tourists of all kinds. It really can be described as ‘Iceland in a nutshell’ and, as such, remains one of my favourite places anywhere in the whole country to visit.
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Iceland is an awesome country. Very scenic and full of surprises. It is on my wishlist. Thank you for sharing these awesome photos and your wonderful writing.