Safari in Zambia: A Trip of a Lifetime

Sipping cocktails at sunset on our treehouse terrace, with a private view of the jungle (complete with elephants casually strolling by), we both agreed that this would take an awful lot to beat as a place to stay…

Introduction

We were visiting the country of Zambia, located in the southeast corner of continental Africa, spending a truly unforgettable week touring the country and viewing the incredible diversity of wildlife on display. Zambia is a beautiful country, home to not only these amazing natural resources, but also to a nation of welcoming, friendly and hospitable people. Here I will share some of our experiences, as well as offering suggestions for some of the best places to go and things to do during a short stay in the country.

Livingstone and Victoria Falls

Where better to start a trip to Zambia, than at the world-famous Victoria Falls. This enormous waterfall is known locally as “The Smoke That Thunders”, due to the noise and spray that it creates. The waterfall is located on the Zambezi River, a river that forms the border between Zambia and neighbouring Zimbabwe. It is considered to be one of the world’s largest waterfalls, boasting a width of 1,708 metres. A visit to the Victoria Falls is one of the top tourist experiences in the whole of Africa.

The town that is closest to Victoria Falls on the Zambian side is Livingstone, named during the time of British colonial rule (when Zambia was known as North Rhodesia) after the Scottish explorer and missionary, David Livingstone. He, in turn, named the falls after Queen Victoria, Britain’s ruling monarch at the time. His legacy as a fierce anti-slavery campaigner has ensured that these chosen names have been retained in a post-colonial Africa, where almost all others around have been replaced. Where historically the town of Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side of the river received the vast majority of foreign tourists, Zimbabwe’s plight in recent years has pushed this trade over to Livingstone in Zambia instead. Livingstone now definitely stands as the town at the centre of Victoria Falls tourism, with a recent growth in hotels and infrastructure to service this demand.

How to see the Victoria Falls?

Livingstone has direct access for a visit to the Victoria Falls. There are walks that take you on a circuit around the falls, accessing a selection of impressive viewpoints and at times crossing some vertigo-inducing footbridges. It is also possible to descend to the river below for a view up. For those with a taste for adventure, it is even possible to walk (and swim) in pools of water that form almost on the edge of the precipice at the top of the waterfall.

Where to stay in Livingstone?

The town of Livingstone has been constructed largely in a British colonial style. The centrepiece of this legacy is the remarkable Royal Livingstone Hotel. Wild game animals, such as zebras and giraffes stroll freely around the grounds of this exclusive 5* hotel, undoubtedly Livingstone’s finest. For a stay that is a cut above anywhere else in town, you need look no further. Opulent bedrooms and suites are complimented by top restaurants and a swimming pool that looks out onto the Zambezi River as it flows right past on its way to the falls a short way downstream. Where better to enjoy a traditional British afternoon tea? Non guests are able to visit and enjoy the grounds and communal spaces.

South Luangwa National Park

After enjoying Livingstone and the spectacle of the Victoria Falls, it is time for some Safari. There are several locations to do this, with some of the best safaris in Zambia being at the South Luangwa National Park, located to the east of Zambia and at the other end of the country from Livingstone.

Where to stay in South Luangwa?

South Luangwa National Park is home to numerous permanent safari camps and lodges. Some are clustered near to the park entrance, others are spread throughout the park itself. For a stay that you’ll never forget, head to the excellent Flat Dogs Camp. In particular, be sure to stay in the Jackalberry Treehouse.

The treehouse consists of a large, raised wooden terrace that is constructed between and supported by several jackalberry trees. It offers an unbeatable living space, with central lounge and dining area and 2 double en-suite bedrooms (one at each end). Imagine looking out of your bathroom window while showering and seeing giraffes walking by! The beds have roof coverings and mosquito nets, but otherwise the whole accommodation is completely open with unobstructed views that overlook a small watering hole. This ensures a steady procession of regular wild animal visitors throughout the day for you to observe up close and in private from your own viewing gallery. There is also a mounted telescope for observing things at a distance, or for night time star-gazing.

The first night we stayed, we couldn’t believe it when we heard some rustling in the night, turned on a light and saw an elephant walking pretty much right by the end of our bed. Imagine our excitement! We’ve stayed in some top hotels around the world but I’m honestly not exaggerating when I say that we’ve never stayed anywhere better than this. For lovers of wildlife, it’s a place that’ll stay with you forever.

The 2 bedrooms means that the tree house is suited to 4 people. However, if booking as a 2, the second bedroom is not used, ensuring you still have complete privacy. The treehouse is also separated from the rest of the camp, adding to the feeling of exclusivity. It is booked as a package that includes 2 safari drives per day, all food (that can be requested at any time), and return airport transfers. Meals can be eaten either in camp or else brought to you for private dining at the treehouse. There is even a private treehouse ‘keeper’ who keeps the cheeky monkeys away whenever you’re not in residence! Drinks have to be paid for separately, but a well stocked honesty bar ensures you can help yourself whenever you choose and pay later.

What are the safari drives like in South Luangwa?

As mentioned above, a packaged stay at Flat Dogs Camp includes 2 safari drives a day. Open 4WD vehicles with mounted bench seats on the back are used for this. They are very safe but you can still feel exposed when up close to a large elephant! The drives last a few hours, led by experienced and English speaking guides who are experts at interpreting the chorus of animal noises and alarm calls to build up a mental picture of where the different animals are moving. It’s impressive to witness.

South Luangwa National Park is a mixture of wooded areas and sections of open grassland, bordered by the meandering Luangwa River. The animals are distributed over a large area with typically more cover than in other similar National Parks in other African countries. There are animals everywhere but this cover means that finding the ‘big hitters’ can take some time and patience. We saw pretty much everything we’d arrived wanting to see (and more) in the end. The fact that you don’t just get instant gratification and see everything in the first 30 minutes means that it feels all the more special when you do come across something like one of the big cats. It also means these can often be viewed in complete privacy from your vehicle, rather than in a circus of vehicles all around.

South Luangwa is also very unusual in that it allows evening/night drives in the park. As well as beautiful sunsets, these offer an amazing and unique opportunity to see some of the park’s nocturnal species by torchlight, at a time when they are at their most active.

What animals can you expect to see in South Luangwa?

South Luangwa National Park contains over 60 species of wildlife and over 400 species of bird, including some of the most dangerous African animals. Several of the mammal species are endemic and unique to the park, such as the Thornicroft Giraffe. A selection of animals that you could see on safari include:

• Lion
• Leopard
• Elephant
• Cape Buffalo
• Wild dog (rare)
• Hippo
• Hyena
• Crawshay’s Zebra
• Thornicroft Giraffe
• Vervet monkey
• Baboon
• Bushbaby
• Porcupine
• Warthog
• Puku
• Impala
• Kudu
• Cookson’s Wildebeest

As you can see, there is no shortage of wildlife diversity on offer. The big cats are harder to find (but definitely there – we saw both lions and leopards during our stay), while elephants, zebras, hippos and giraffes are plentiful. It really is an incredibly beautiful place to explore.

For a handy photo guide of the animals that you can expect to see in Africa, take a look at this roundup of the top animals to see on safari.

Getting to Zambia and Getting Around

The main international airport for Zambia is situated in the country’s capital, Lusaka. Most long-haul flights connect via Johannesberg in South Africa to the south (why not stay for longer and combine your safari with a visit to some of the favourite tourist sites of South Africa?).

For internal travel, Proflight offer regular scheduled flights around the key locations of the country. Livingstone has its own airport, while the nearest airport for South Luangwa National Park is at Mfuwe (a 2-3 hour drive away).

Cheaper Options

You may have noticed on closer inspection that these recommendations for amazing places to stay come with a price tag to match. I’ll make no apology for that as this is meant to be the trip of a lifetime, after all. If you like the idea of doing it in style, check out some of these other incredible luxury safari lodges, to get some inspiration from other locations.

However, here are a few potential cost-cutting savings for those in need:

In Livingstone, enjoy the opulence of the Royal Livingstone with a visit for a drink, rather than a stay. Livingstone has a great selection of other decent accommodation, to suit all budgets. A night out in some of the local bars is also an experience not to be missed – beware though, the smiling locals will have you up and dancing before you know it!

For the safari, other cheaper options are available at both Flat Dogs Camp and at other places within the South Luangwa National Park. The drives into the park still offer the same experience. Personally though, for me, it just wouldn’t have been the same if we’d not been in the Jackalberry Treehouse, so this is definitely one that’s worth saving up for.

For getting around the country, rather than use the expensive internal flights, consider driving instead. Drives are long, however (approx 9 hours from Livingstone to Lusaka and 15 hours from Livingstone to South Luangwa). Local bus transport run these routes (you’ll get a true taste of the real Zambia en route), or else private cars with drivers can be acquisitioned for the purpose.

Ultimately, an African safari holiday is never going to a budget option (especially for anyone coming from Europe or a similarly long way away). You may only ever do it once though, so why not do it in style?

Conclusion

Zambia is a truly beautiful country, home to not only one of Africa’s most recognisable landmarks, the Victoria Falls, but also to a real abundance of wildlife and unspoiled natural treasures. The jewel amongst the various National Parks on offer is undoubtedly South Luangwa. It has a diversity of interesting animal species that you’d be hard pushed to better elsewhere.

The Zambian people are also a warm, welcoming nation of people. You will rarely have to endure any kinds of hassle or unwanted attention that are so commonplace in other northern and western parts of Africa. I honestly can’t recommend it enough as a place to visit. If you’re thinking of an African safari holiday, why not consider Zambia and South Luangwa National Park for your next trip? It’s a place and experience that I’m sure will stay with you forever.

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