Merzouga: A Moroccan Desert Adventure

3 Days in Merzouga, with our 3 Children, Experiencing the best of Morocco’s Desert Tourism

Disclaimer: We were fortunate to have this section of our trip subsidised by H&G Morocco Tours, in return for some online publicity. That said, all opinions expressed here are genuine. We would never take payment or reward for false or exaggerated reviews.

As we approached Merzouga, the enormous red dunes of the Sahara Desert began to show themselves in the distance. This signalled the end of an epic 4 day road trip across Morocco, that had taken us from the Atlantic coast, over mountains, through deserts, to here; our final destination. We’d passed some great viewpoints along the way, but the excitement of seeing these proper desert dunes for real still made for an unforgettable sight.

H&G Morocco Tours

We would usually opt for independent travel over organised tours. However, on this occasion having our stay organised for us by H&G Morocco Tours exceeded expectations, with them sourcing us some excellent accommodation and undoubtedly providing us with experiences that we wouldn’t have found on our own. They specialise in small, personalised tours with an emphasis on local engagement (one of the owners grew up in a Berber nomad family) and sustainability. I can wholeheartedly recommend both their ethos and offering. We couldn’t have achieved the same seamless package of activities if we’d tried to source each separate section of the trip independently ourselves.

Merzouga 4WD Tour

As well as arranging our accommodation and transfers around Merzouga, H&G Morocco Tours took us on a mini 4WD tour of the surrounding area. We visited a local, nomad family, who generously welcomed us in for mint tea in their makeshift tent. We had their history and way of life explained to us, with surprising tales of traditional Berber wedding customs leaving a lasting impression.

This was followed by a visit to a viewpoint at an abandoned former French heavy metals mine up on the hillside.

The highlight of the trip for us was a visit to the ‘Pigeons du Sable’ (or ‘Pigeons of the Desert’), a traditional (and loud!) musical group based within a Gnaoua community descended from South Sudanese slaves.

Once only used ceremonially and very infrequently, this musical style was at risk of disappearing. In an attempt to keep these traditions alive and raise some extra revenue for the village, the music is now played for visitors.

The highlight of the trip for the children was being driven up and down at speed over some of the smaller sand dunes in the 4WD, on the way back to the hotel. Kids love a ride!

Merzouga

Merzouga, the undisputed capital of Morocco’s emerging desert tourism industry, is tucked in right next to the red sand dunes of the Sahara. Although the main town centre is only quite small, it does have a few shops and restaurants, as well as a bank with ATM. Newly built mud (or at least mud-rendered for effect) hotels sprawl in all directions to service the growing demand. I was surprised by the sheer quantity of these hotels, with more under construction. It seems that desert tourism has become big business.

Where to stay with Children in Merzouga

Our arrival at the Hotel Kasbah Moyahut was met with great excitement from the children. They were amused by the mud construction (“won’t it wash away in the rain?”), were intrigued by the entrance foyer full of desert fossils, and loved exploring the maze of rooms and walkways. There is also a pool (sadly too cold for all but the bravest of swimmers in winter), comfy outdoor seating and a licensed rooftop bar with desert views.

It’s a beautiful place to stay and the staff were very friendly. We had a family suite containing 2 separate bedrooms (with hot/cold air con) and private bathroom. It was perfect for our needs.

Only a short walk to the rear of the hotel brings you onto the desert dunes. It is an expanse of sand that looks like it goes on forever. Some of the dunes in sight, such as the majestic Erb Chebbi, are truly mountainous. For those wanting a challenge, some can be climbed for panoramic desert views (although the top sands shift in the wind, apparently the main structure of the dunes remains unchanged over time). On a clear night it is dark enough to see an incredible display of stars in the night sky.

Where to eat with Children in Merzouga

Most desert hotels provide packages that typically include breakfast and evening meals. The food at our hotel, Kasbah Moyahut, was excellent. Primarily Moroccan (Berber) cuisine, they managed to keep the meals fresh and varied over the 2 days we were staying there. They even provided two very different (and tasty) styles of vegetable tagine over the 2 days for vegetarians, which was a nice touch. Our fussy kids defiantly ate mostly bread alone, but also managed to eat some other bits and pieces that they deemed acceptable.

Besides the hotels, the town centre is home to a few independent restaurants. The pick of the bunch is Restaurant L’entrecôte Merzouga. It has a great varied menu, the food is all freshly cooked and delicious, the staff are some of the nicest people you’ll meet and, best of all, the prices are incredibly reasonable. It was definitely some of our must try food in Morocco.

Camels and Desert Camps

Seeing the desert on foot from the hotel is one thing. That’s not why everyone is here though. Riding in on camels is the real star of the show. Standing on the dunes at sunset, you can watch wave after wave of camels lined up with tourists on board (some even dressed in Berber costumes!), heading off into the desert. It’s quite atmospheric and you could kid yourself that you’re watching an ancient desert trade caravan departing, as long you don’t look too hard!

For those thrill seeking and wanting a motorised option instead, there is also the option of driving 4WD vehicles or quad bikes to the desert camps. For me though, that would be missing the point. I’d come to the desert to ride a camel.

I had imagined trekking deep into the desert to our camp. Sadly, that is not the case. All the camps are located relatively close to the edge of the dunes. I guess this makes sense logistically when people expect en-suite bathrooms and hot, running water. Although this removes some of the romance, a trip to a camp is still a special experience. Choose wisely though, some camps are definitely better than others, both in location and quality.

Most of the major hotels run their own desert camps. Our hotel was no exception. If we hadn’t have known better we may have just booked to stay a night in that one. That would have meant walking around in circles on a camel to end up only about 100m from the hotel, with the rear of the hotel still in sight. Given there is no heating at the camps (and winter nights can get very cold), I think if I’d have gone for this option I’d have given up in the night and gone back to the hotel!

Fortunately, H&G Morocco Tours had selected for us the excellent Sahara Stars desert camp, arranging a short transfer for us from our hotel to the departure point. We rode for just under an hour on camels to reach the camp, which was nestled in a much more secluded desert location than some of the others we’d seen.

I must confess this wasn’t our first camel trekking experience. Many years ago, before children, we’d ridden camels into the desert in Rajasthan, India. It rained. Unbelievably, this time around, just as we arrived at the Sahara Stars camp, it started to rain. Rain in the Sahara desert. You couldn’t make it up! Fortunately it didn’t last long or detract from our overall camp experience.

The camp itself was amazing. It was definitely a 5* offering. It was beautifully laid out around a central bonfire with carpeted floors and plenty of outdoor seating options available.

The food on offer was plentiful and always tasty. Our tent had en-suite bathroom, comfy beds and plenty of extra blankets to help see us through the cold winter night.

The following day we were given the option of riding camels back or getting a lift in a 4WD vehicle. We chose camels. I’d have thought it was a no-brainer but most of our fellow guests chose the 4WD. I guess one camel ride was enough to scratch their itch. This was great news for us as it meant there were far fewer people with us for the return trip, the sun was shining and, despite my legs aching by the end of the ride, we all agreed this had been the best bit of the whole desert trip.

When to Visit Merzouga

Peak seasons in the desert are Spring and Autumn. Summer temperatures can get uncomfortably hot. Winter nights can get very cold in the desert camps and swimming pools are too cold to use. That said, daytime temperatures in winter are still very pleasant so, if you want fewer people to share the experience with and you can handle the cold nights, winter time can also be a good option.

Whenever you decide to go, I wouldn’t leave it too long. More desert hotels and camps are being constructed all the time. If this rate of expansion continues, with the corresponding increase in visitor numbers and tour operators, there is the very real risk of the complete Disneyfication of the desert.

That shouldn’t detract from the fact that we all had a great time. The kids in particular loved the whole experience from start to finish. Our trip to Merzouga and the dunes of the Sahara Desert will remain with us as a top highlight from our month in Morocco.