A Campervan Trip to the Algarve with Children

Sun, sand, surf and plenty of smiles await in Portugal’s most popular tourist destination…

**EDIT (Jan 2021): Since writing this article, Portugal has passed a new by-law that prohibits the overnight parking of campervans and motorhomes in all locations other than purpose built sites (punishable by large fines), effectively putting an end to wild camping on the Algarve. Sadly, the inconsiderate minority have spoiled this experience for everyone. Therefore, it is no longer recommended to stay at any of the wild camping locations mentioned in this article. It is advisable to stick to authorised sites and locations only.

Introduction

The Algarve is Portugal’s southernmost region, characterised by a long coastline and consistent year-round sunshine. Popular with holidaying families in summer, the area continues to attract visitors right through the winter months. This is largely due to the waves of often retired Northern Europeans who descend upon the region each year, hoping to escape to a milder climate. A good portion of these drive down and stay in their own motorhomes. This all-season popularity ensures that whenever you visit, you can always expect to find other visitors around and plenty of things to do. Attractions range from long sandy beaches, sea caves, surfing and waterparks, to traditional hilltop towns, castles and local festivals. Add to that a lively culinary and wine scene with some great Portuguese dishes to try, and you’ll see that the Algarve really has a lot to offer, all of it just waiting to be explored. 

Although the Algarve also boasts a stunning and naturally preserved, windswept, west-facing coastline, it is perhaps most commonly associated with its calmer and more visited, southern coast. I will therefore be concentrating mainly on here. As you move east along this southern coast, the character of the coast gradually changes, from dramatic, rocky cliffs and caves, interspersed with small, sandy coves that dominate the west, to the long, flat stretches of white sand found towards the eastern end as you approach the border with Spain.

Along with my husband and 3 young children, we spent an enjoyable month exploring the region earlier this year. As ever, we were touring in ‘Hazel’, our beloved classic Hymer motorhome.

Campervans and Motorhomes in the Algarve

The Algarve is perfectly suited to touring in a motorhome/campervan (or autocaravan as they are locally known). This way of travelling allows visitors to see all the variety that the area has to offer, while retaining the freedom to move around at your own pace. That said, of course you don’t have to visit in a van. Hopefully some of my suggestions below can still be useful, regardless of how you plan to travel. If you’re unsure of what to bring with you, take a look at this packing list for Portugal.

For places to stay, there are some great campsites to choose from, many with top-class facilities. Be aware though, that a lot of the more popular sites specifically catering to autocaravans can get very busy (or even fully booked) over the winter. This was when we visited – so I experienced this first-hand. Many of the seasonal winter visitors seem to just come and stay in the same place for months on end. Personally, that kind of travel is not really for me. I’d rather keep moving and be spontaneous. I’m pleased to say that despite making no prior reservations, we nearly always managed to just about squeeze in everywhere that we went. 

As well as official campsites and autocaravan areas, there are also a lot of accessible ‘wild’ camping spots spread all along the coast. I have tried to include both campsites and some of these ‘wild’ spots below. Personally, travelling with children, we usually find a mixture of the two works best for us. From experience, respectful campers are usually tolerated in these ‘wild’ places (outside of peak summer in any case) – Keep in mind though to obviously always obey any local rules and never leave any waste whatsoever behind when you leave. Unfortunately a small minority don’t seem to think these basic courtesies apply to them, and by doing so jeopardise these freedoms for everybody else.

Sagres

Sagres, a town situated right at the western end of this southern coast, is where I’ll start. A long-time favourite with surfers from around the world, Sagres is a hip place to hang out for a while, with a great vibe all year-round.

Its position on a headland, protruding out from the far southwest corner of Europe, means that the town has access to many surrounding beaches, that each face in a variety of different directions. These beaches are for the most part backed by impressive cliffs, resulting in a choice of either sheltered or windy conditions, depending on the orientation of your chosen beach. Likewise, surfers can chase the best swells, depending on the particular conditions of that day. Surfboard hire and lessons can be arranged in town for anyone wanting to give it a go for themselves.

In addition to the array of surf shops on offer, the town also has a good selection of decent places to eat. Away from the town itself, at the very end of the headland sits the Fortaleza de Sagres (or Sagres Fortress), an imposing stone coastal defence that has played an important role through the ages. A wander either to the end of this headland, or alternatively to the end of the nearby Cabo de São Vicente (considered to be Europe’s most southwestern point), both make great walks with unbeatable views out to the seemingly endless ocean beyond.

For a place to stay, it is possible to stay in a van (along with the hundreds of others!) in the large car park that is intended for visitors to the Sagres Fortress. There are no facilities but for those who are self sufficient it is otherwise a decent enough place to stay. There are always lots of surfers around so the atmosphere is lively and friendly, while never being overly noisy. A selection of beaches, as well as a dramatic clifftop for sunset views, can all be easily reached on foot from this parking. Our kids enjoyed being able to play on the beach during our stay.

Lagos

Heading east and away from Sagres, next along the coast is the larger town of Lagos. This coastal town has both an attractive central walled old town to browse, as well as a large sandy beach that stretches away to the east, making it a good base for spending a few days and exploring the surrounding area. 

What makes Lagos really stand out though as a place to visit, are the extensive network of ever-changing sandstone cliffs, sea stacks, arches and caves that extend south along the coastline from the town, out to the headland at Ponta da Piedade. These rocky features are interspersed with small, secluded, sandy coves that are magical to discover (such as when descending the long flight of stairs down to the cute beach at Praia do Camilo). Although close to deserted when we visited, some of these desirable small beaches can get extremely busy during the peak summer holiday season.

A walk around the clifftop and lighthouse at Ponta da Piedade gives good views from above of all these various coastal rock features laid out below. To experience them close up (with the chance to enter inside some of the caves), it is also possible to take a boat trip. There are many companies that arrange these, both locally and also from the main marina in Lagos. Like the beaches, a visit outside of peak season will feel more special. When it’s busy, the boats tend to all swarm on top of each other somewhat. If visiting this area, this is definitely an experience not to be missed. Our children loved putting on their lifejackets and zooming out to sea on a little speedboat.

Just outside Lagos is the excellent Yelloh! Camping. Its best feature is perhaps a beautiful (and warm) indoor swimming pool, complete with jacuzzi pool and very shallow infants pool. If you’re visiting out of season with kids and the weather is bad, I’d go as far as to say that you won’t find anywhere better in the whole of Portugal for a place to stay. Alternatively, if you’re looking for a place to stay that is closer to town, behind the main marina in Lagos there are several informal car parks by the beach. These make a decent place to stay for free, with direct beach access. Some of this area has signs prohibiting campers so use your common sense when selecting a place. There is also an official camper parking area that can be used for services if required, but it is badly placed and not very nice so I personally wouldn’t recommend staying there if you can avoid it.

Benagil Cave

If a boat trip in Lagos has given you a taste for these kinds of coastal rock features, the most famous sea cave in the Algarve can be found further to the east, at the truly awe-inspiring Benagil Cave. Regular boat trips can be arranged to take you the short distance from the nearby Benagil Beach around to the cave. The presence of the cave makes this one of the most beautiful beaches in Portugal.The boats can go inside the cave but are not permitted to let passengers out of the boats (so as to help preserve the integrity of the cave).

There is also the option of renting a kayak, or even swimming, to reach the cave independently (it is actually a much shorter distance than I was expecting). In fact, owning your own inflatable kayak would be a great way to ensure many fun kayaking adventures. Visiting the cave in this way allows you to sit on the sand inside the cave and savour the extra-special experience of having the place all to yourself (at least at quieter times of year in any case).

Sadly, campers and vans of all types are completely prohibited from entering any of the entrances to the whole network of winding roads that approach the beach and cave. Nobody seemed to mind too much in the off-season when we sneaked down anyway in ours (although beware that most car parks have height barriers). However, in summer I’m sure that you’d have to park elsewhere and look for alternative transport options to reach the beach and cave.

Central Algarve

Continuing east from Benagil brings you to the central and busiest section of the Algarve. Albufeira is the main coastal tourist resort. If you’re looking for parties and nightlife, along with the predictable souvenir shops and mass package tourism, this is undoubtedly the place to head for. If you’re actually arriving by plane and not in a camper, this is how to get from Faro Airport to Albufeira. All around Albufeira are a wealth of other tourist attractions for keeping families and kids entertained while on holiday. One of the best is the Slide & Splash waterpark, which has plenty of shaded areas, an amazing selection of slides, as well as falconry and animal shows. Zoomarine is another, with dolphin and seal shows, as well as fun kids shows and a small water park. While admittedly I am usually uncomfortable with the idea of keeping energetic sea mammals such as these in captivity, their emphasis on attempting to promote marine conservation, as well as seemingly well cared for animals, did provide me with a certain degree of reassurance in this regard.

A short drive inland and away from the coast brings you to some charming traditional towns to visit. Silves has a hilltop castle which is fun to explore, as well as bustling little cafes and restaurants dotted around the winding streets below. I particularly liked how all of the pavement service utilities cupboards, rather than being the usual boring green or grey, have all been creatively painted in different beautiful designs to help decorate and brighten up the urban environment of the town. Further east, Loulé has an interesting town centre, that is set around an impressive (though rebuilt) 2nd century castle. They have signed walking routes to best guide you around the town’s highlights. Visiting in winter, we found the castle to be beautifully decorated with Christmas lights, adding to the magical feel for children.

For an excellent camper site to stay at, look inland at the quirky Mikki’s Place to Stay. Part campsite, part animal farm, part art studio – kids will love it. While a bit out of the way, a lively bar and social scene all year around, along with some beautifully landscaped grounds, combine to make it still one of the best options in this area (we heard tales of people who arrive for a day or two and end up staying for months!). Alternatively, for a great free option by the coast that is literally right on the beach, make your way to Praia da Lagoa, situated just to the east of the town of Quarteira. Here it is normal to find a whole assortment of vans parked along the small access road to the beach. If you’re lucky, you can get a spot that directly overlooks the sand, with a clear view straight out to sea for some unforgettable sunsets.

Tavira and Cabanas

As you move towards the eastern end of the Algarve, gone are the rocky coastal features that characterise the western end and, instead, you’ll discover long, idyllic stretches of some of the whitest sand that you’ll be likely to find anywhere in Europe. Granted, it may not be quite tropical island white, but it comes pretty close nonetheless. A series of elongated sandbank islands stretch along this portion of the coastline, themselves protecting calm lagoon waters that sit behind. Octopus fishing is a particular speciality of this region.

The best beaches face out to sea from on these sandbank islands, such as at Praia de Cabana, and are only accessible by boat. Taxi boats are available all year-round to shuttle visitors over onto the islands and back. The boat for Praia de Cabana departs from the dock in the small fishing town of Cabanas, to the east of the larger town of Tavira. Once you’ve made the short hop over to the island, the endless expanse of sun and sand that greets you is all yours – warm enough to enjoy even in the middle of winter on a good day. Something to consider if visiting in the height of summer though, is that the barren nature of these islands does mean that there is almost no shade whatsoever. If visiting with children, you’d be advised to therefore take a parasol or sunshade with you when you go. In the summer months, Praia de Cabana has a small beach restaurant with toilets, but there are otherwise no other facilities at all on the island.

As well as shuttle boats to the islands, it is also possible to take longer boat trips to see the surrounding lagoons and coastal habitats of the countless different bird species that live here. If you’re lucky, you can sometimes even see wild flamingos. 

The town centre of Tavira boasts a castle and other visitor attractions for a day trip. Cabanas, while lively along the seafront, still oozes the charm of a sleepy former fishing village. Facing out onto the lagoon in Cabanas are a series of inviting and reasonably priced cafes and restaurants, most with outdoor seating. It seems nobody is in much of a rush here, which sometimes is the best way. Although there is evidence that new developments are springing up all over and continuing to bring tourists and second home owners to this area in ever-increasing numbers, these towns of the eastern Algarve still retain a quieter charm than their brasher, noisier neighbours to the west.

For somewhere to stay, Cabanas has a very nice campsite set up on the hill, Camping Ria Formosa. It has a beautiful outdoor pool, children’s playground and onsite restaurant. The only downside is that it’s a bit further than you might like from the seafront itself. That said, it is still a manageable walk, even when taking moaning children along with you.

In Summary

The Algarve really is a very beautiful and special part of the world. It is easy to see why it has developed over the years to become Portugal’s premier tourism destination. I am fully aware that with this round-up I have only just scratched the surface of what is on offer to visitors. There are so many more picturesque beaches, surf spots, historic towns and attractions to be discovered and explored. Add to that a wealth of inland mountain countryside, perfect for hiking and dotted with small, traditional villages that showcase what remains of a traditional Algarvian way of life, and you’ll appreciate that this region possesses something for everyone. 

In addition, if visiting and touring the country in a van, don’t be tempted to simply head straight for the Algarve and rush in and out. If you are not restricted on time, the rest of Portugal also makes for an interesting and surprisingly varied country to travel around, full of castles, UNESCO World Heritage sites, festivals, quaint villages with living traditions and two of the best year-round short-break city destinations that you’ll find anywhere, in Lisbon and Porto. You’ll be sure to enjoy all there is to offer during a day trip to Porto with children. Alternatively, even outside of peak season, there is still loads to do in Lisbon in winter. If you’re staying for longer, consider exploring some of the best road trips in Portugal.

Ultimately, if visiting the Algarve, allow yourself to see past the classic clichès of sunburnt package tourists in summer and endless waves of retired couples in their motorhomes in winter, and you’ll find that there’s actually so much more on offer to visitors of all kinds. While of course both those types of tourist are very much in evidence, they certainly don’t represent or define the overall character of the region.

Being a place that is both varied and perfect for exploring, a visit in a campervan or motorhome really is the ideal way to experience all that the Algarve has to offer. So, don’t delay! Once international travel begins to return to something approaching normality again, I’d definitely recommend jumping behind the wheel of your van and going to see for yourself. Or, if you’re new to all this, why not consider a different type of holiday and rent yourself a van for a short break, so that you can see what all the fuss is about. I like to think that you won’t be disappointed. Whether visiting in the peak of summer tourism, or enjoying the surprisingly sunny days and relative peace and isolation of winter, the Algarve rightly remains one of Europe’s classic and most loved family holiday destinations.

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