Background
The sun shines as I gaze out of the window at the people passing by. I assess the intricate spread of food laid out on the bar in front of me, divided into beautifully presented bite-size plates, deciding where my culinary journey will take me next.
This style of eating, of small tapas plates (pinxtos), typically presented on a small slice of bread, is one thing the Basque region (a semi-autonomous region of Northern Spain) is famous for. However, beyond the pinxtos there is so much more to be discovered in this fascinating region that boasts both beautiful scenery and colourful culture.
As proven by the crowds of tourists who flock there every year, San Sebastian is the jewel of the region and the perfect place for a short city break. Here are some of my suggestions for how to spend 48 hours in this vibrant city.
Day 1
Morning: Head for the beach
The city is located in a perfect natural crescent shaped bay, boasting a long city coastline with family friendly golden sandy Kontxa beach with calm waters for swimming. The backdrop to the beach is lined with attractive white, cast iron-works, reminiscent of an English Victorian seaside town. Providing the sun is shining, it’s the perfect place to sit and join both tourists and locals alike to relax for a few hours. The girls enjoyed building sandcastles and paddling in the sea.
Alternatively, for those wanting to be more active, being on the Atlantic coast, Zurriola beach to the east of the city is also known for its surf. Boards and wetsuits are available for rent, with surfschools on hand to provide lessons.
Lunch
At the rear of the beach there are a series of beach-side restaurants with an unrivalled view across the bay to the old town. There is something for all tastes, from upmarket eateries specialising in seafood, to simpler cafe restaurants.
Afternoon: Head for the Old Town
The old town is a grid of winding pedestrianised streets and alleys, lined with pinxto bars and interesting independent shops. There aren’t many better places for a wander. You can happily pass the time strolling from bar to bar, having a few drinks whilst selecting from the irresistible arrangements of tapas food, or pinxtos, laid out on the bars, ready to eat. The kids also enjoyed this style of eating, being able to pick what they wanted and with no waiting time!
The Old Town centres on Constitution Plaza, a grand square lined with outdoor cafe tables, perfect for a drink while watching people pass by.
When the kids had had enough, we exited the old town to an excellent playground located on the seafront just outside, in the Alderdi Eder Park, complete with vintage carousel ride next door.
Dinner and Evening
As day turned to night, the Old Town began to truly come alive as evening revellers came out to have dinner and enjoy everything on offer. We were out with kids though, so that meant heading back to our motorhome. We were parked by the University, in some low cost parking, which proved to be a good base for quiet sleeps and easy access by bike for exploring the city.
Day 2
Morning: Funicular Railway
At the opposite end of the bay from the Old Town, sits the historic Igeldoko funicular railway. This railway takes you steeply up the hillside to the Monte Igueldo viewpoint. The views from the top back across the bay are truly breathtaking. At the top there is also a funfair with some funky retro fairground rides to enjoy. Unfortunately in the off season, the rides were only open at the weekend, so we weren’t able to enjoy them (which obviously the girls were devastated about!). The views alone were still worth the effort though.
Lunch
After descending the funicular, head to Bar Cerveceria Pepe for a great selection of tapas dishes, washed down with some local wine. The menu is broad and varied with something to suit all tastes.
Afternoon: Hang out in the Ondarreta District
Ondarreta is the upscale area to the west of the city, home to some of the city’s more affluent residents, as well as great bars and restaurants and lots of green spaces. It is easy to pass a few hours chilling in either the seafront parks, or on Ondarreta beach, a great alternative the main city beach. A climb up to the Jardines de Miramar provides you with a nice park that houses the Miramar Palace (once the summer residence of the Queen of Spain), as well as great views back across the bay to the Old Town. Behind the park is a small but shaded children’s playground, with the added bonus of having a pinxto bar with outdoor tables next door – so the adults can also be entertained while the children play!
Dinner and Evening
The Ondarreta district is home to a range of upmarket eateries if you fancy a great meal out, or else a sunset stroll right back along the seafront to the Old Town provides the perfect arena for people watching. Whatever you decide, there’s always something to grab your attention around every corner. For us, evening meant heading back to our motorhome, ready to move on the next day to explore more of the Basque coast. San Sebastian left a lasting impression on us though, so will remain in our hearts.
Top 5 Things to do in San Sebastian with Children
1: Build sandcastles on one of the beautiful city beaches. Older children may want to also give surfing a try.
2: Take a trip up the Igeldoko Funicular Railway for unbeatable views back across the bay.
3: Ride the retro funfair rides at the top of the Igueldo Viewpoint – remember to go on the weekend if out of season or you’ll find them closed.
4: Go to the excellent children’s playground at the Alderdi Eder Park, just outside the Old Town.
5: Eat in the Pinxto bars of the Old Town. The great selection of food and zero wait times are perfect for kids.
Something for a Rainy Day in San Sebastian
The sun can’t be shining all the time, but don’t despair! The city is home to an excellent aquarium, located at the end of the eastern peninsula of the bay, beyond the Old Town. It’s sure to keep the kids entertained on a rainy day.
Top Money Saving Tip for San Sebastian
Away from the main tourist areas, it is customary for bars to bring not just olives and sometimes bread to your table when you order a drink, but also a small tapas plate, all included in the price of the drink. This was a pleasant surprise the first time! A visit to a few bars in an evening can go some way to adding up to a free meal for only the cost of the drinks. Delicious!
San Sebastian was a surprise to me. I took a free walking tour there that I chanced into when I emerged from the underground car park. The tapas was awesome and I loved the waterfront.
I would totally go to San Sebastian. Thank you for the tips on the itinerary
I have been in many cities in Spain but not the Basque region and San Sebastian, it seems very exciting and I loved your suggested itinerary. The tapas surprise along with the drink sounds like the aperitivo they have in Italy and the meze we have in Greece, probably a mediterranean habit, which is lovely indeed!
I love that some places in San Sebastian bring a free tapas plate, olives and bread when you order a drink. Fantastic. Hope to get back to Spain and go to San Sebastian.
I enjoyed familiarizing myself with San Sebastion. The view from the top of Mount Igueldo is fantastic. The tapas at the Old Town Pinxto Bar also look delicious.
It’s a beautiful place – I’m looking forward to hopefully going back later this summer