A Day Trip with Children to Porto

As our server (his face adorned with striking beard) assembled our selection of ports along the table in front of us, all beautifully presented in their own matching, branded glasses, I knew this was shaping up to be the start of a fun afternoon…

Introduction

This was our first time in Porto, Portugal’s second city, located in the north of the country. We’d heard only good things about the place, so were keen to check it out for ourselves during our tour of the country, that we were undertaking in our Classic Hymer camper.

An outpost settlement since Roman times, Porto grew during the 14th and 15th centuries as a centre of shipbuilding. The city launched many ships during the Portuguese age of discovery, as Portuguese sailors set off to explore the oceans and discover new lands all around the world.

In the 18th century, Porto’s most famous export (that remains to this day) became, of course, port wine (or vinho do Porto) – a product that is now of European Protected Origin. Port is formulated using wine produced in the Alto Douro Valley upstream of Porto, which is then mixed with a distilled spirit (typically brandy). When first created, this sweetened, stronger, smooth tasting wine proved to be a hit, particularly with the English. The combination of reduced import taxes and a war with France at the time (that cut off the supply of French wine to England), meant that English seafaring traders in the 18th century seized upon this opportunity to develop a new trade in this type of wine, helped by it being well suited to surviving the long journey back to England. Although not entirely exclusive to the English, the fact that the names of the majority of the largest port producers in Porto still bear English family names, demonstrates the influence that the English had in establishing and developing this industry. Being English ourselves, it seemed only right that we should be returning to try some for ourselves in the place that it is made.

The success of, and wealth generated by, the port wine industry helped to finance the industrial development of Porto into the city that it is today. The city sits astride the mighty Douro River, just upstream of the mouth of where the river spills out into the Atlantic Ocean. Historical buildings, attractive vistas, a lively bar and restaurant scene and top-class museums and attractions make Porto the perfect place for an interesting and entertaining short city break. In some ways, it is almost too perfect, with the ever increasing waves of foreign tourists pouring into the city at peak summer times threatening to overwhelm the city’s infrastructure.

Whether visiting Porto alone, as a couple or with friends, or even as a family as we were, there is plenty for everyone to keep them happily entertained for a few days. If you’re short on time however, here are some suggestions for how to best spend a day in Porto. You may (perhaps rightly) not feel that you’ll have enough time to do everything I’ve listed here in just one day, so just pick the bits that most appeal to you. Definitely be sure to check out both sides of the river though, as both offer quite distinct character and experiences.

The Old City

The core of Porto has, since 1996, been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised as one of Europe’s oldest surviving city centres. Stretching up the hillside from the north bank of the River Douro, it is perfect for exploring. Its bustling streets are packed full of life. For a visit that is easier on the legs, I’d suggest starting at the top of the hill (near to the Trinidade Metro station) and working your way down towards the river. There is so much to explore and too many beautiful historic buildings to list them all here. Some of my highlights of the old city include:

• Av. dos Aliados – This main road running north-south as you approach the old city from the north, divides to surround an attractive pedestrianised plaza. At the northern end is the grand City Hall building, with a sculpture in front that spells ‘Porto’ in large blue letters. It’s a favourite spot with visitors for photos (expect to wait a while for your chance to take your own picture with the letters!). Although a bit of a cliché, we couldn’t leave without loading our kids onto the letters for a shot of our own. At the southern end of the plaza is the striking statue of Dom Pedro IV sat astride his horse.

• São Bento Station – Continuing downhill brings you to the São Bento train station. Constructed in the 1800s, the main visitor appeal of the station comes from its enormous, ornate, tiled frescos that decorate the station entrance foyer. The detail is incredible, making the station well worth a quick look inside.

• Porto Cathedral – The 12th century hilltop Romanesque cathedral and the narrow lanes surrounding it combine to create a very atmospheric part of the city. The cathedral itself is unusual in its construction, with its unchanged internal fortified structure and Gothic cloisters worthy of a visit inside.

• Mercado Ferreira Borges – A striking 19th century building made from iron and glass that now houses a restaurant and nightclub. The architecture of the building is quite dramatic to see up close. It also now houses a market of local artisan producers and handicrafts – good if looking for some interesting gift or souvenir ideas away from the usual, predictable tourist shops.

• Casa do Infante – Further down the hill, as you approach the river, is this reconstructed medieval customs house that now houses the city museum. At the time when we visited, entrance was free. The museum contains some exposed archaeological remains from the building’s past, as well as displaying the history of the region and the country of Portugal as a whole. The history of Portuguese global exploration through the ages is well documented. Although the museum is a bit heavy on information (particularly for children), some of the maps and displays are interesting for getting some historical background of the country.

The Riverside and Boat Tours

• North Bank – Descending the hill from the north eventually brings you out onto the north bank of the River Douro. All along are a series of split-level bars and restaurants with views out onto the river. It’s a great spot to sit and enjoy a drink with a chance to sit outside if the weather allows. For some traditional Portuguese food of an arguably higher standard than the generic offerings along the riverfront, head to the porto escondido restaurant, located in the alley just behind.

• River Boats – A great way to see the Porto city skyline is from the water. Boat trips and tours operate from all along the waterfront. You can do anything from short trips within the city limits, all the way up to multi-day excursions up the scenic Douro Valley as far as the wine producing regions. At the most simplest, taxi boats operate to shuttle passengers across the river. These provide a very economical way of getting a small taster of life on the water, while at the same time being conveniently delivered over to the south bank.

• South Bank – The south side of the river is home to nearly all the port houses and port producers of Porto. Moored on display along the river are a selection of the traditional, wooden port boats that were used to transport the precious wine cargo on the long and at at times treacherous journey down from the Douro vineyards. Lined along the riverbank are also signs displaying the names of all the vast array of port producers. Some of these names match the large illuminated signs that have been erected above a lot of the larger, household name, producers and that characterise the city skyline on the southern side of the river. This riverbank is also home to a stretch of vendors and market stalls to browse for souvenirs, a children’s playground, as well as numerous bars and restaurants. The Espaço Porto Cruz rooftop bar offers an unbeatable view over the whole of the city.

Port Tasting

No trip to Porto would be complete without a chance to sample some of that famous port wine. Most of the producers offer different tasting packages, from single glasses to whole tasting experiences. These aim to showcase a selection of styles and flavours, along with a chance to sample some of the more exclusive vintages. Tastings usually have to be paid for but some places will discount the cost of the tasting from any subsequent purchase of a bottle. For a proper tasting experience, we were locally recommended a trip to Cálem as being a good option and I’m pleased to say it didn’t disappoint. We opted for a tasting selection from their menu and enjoyed the surprising variety of colours, tastes and styles on offer, all knowledgeably introduced to us by our server with a great beard. Just be prepared to somewhat stagger out if completing all of every glass in the assortment, while of course making sure to not leave any kids behind by mistake! Cálem also offer tours of their cave and museum that provide further explanation of the port making process and history.

If wanting just a small taste of port and if planning a ride on the Teleférico de Gaia (or mountain cable car skyride) anyway, the ticket cost of the ride includes a voucher for a small, free tasting at a nearby producer. It’s a good way to get a little sample of what is on offer, but don’t expect what you’ll taste to match the flavour or character of some of the more expensive vintages that can be sampled elsewhere.

If all that port leaves you needing a bite to eat, tucked away amongst the port houses is the cute Toca do coelho restaurant, serving uncomplicated but delicious home-cooked, local food.

Cable Car Skyride

The Teleférico de Gaia, or Gaia Cable Car, transports passengers from the riverside on the south bank up to the beautiful Monastery of Serra do Pilar, a former monastery and church overlooking the river from high on the hillside. It is just about possible to walk all the way up, but the skyride makes for an easier and much more enjoyable way of getting there. The views are lovely and our children had great fun on the ride. Rides cost €6/€9 for an adult single/round-trip, or €3/€4.50 for children aged 5-12.

Monastery of Serra do Pilar and the Luís I Bridge

The cable car ride brings you right up to this former monastery and church. It is a beautiful slice of history waiting to be explored, as well as offering lovely views down to the river and city below. Along with the city’s historical centre and the Luís I Bridge, this monastery completes the three elements that define Porto’s UNESCO World Heritage status.

The Luís I Bridge is the iconic iron structure that spans the Douro River and dominates the Porto Skyline. Impressive by day, the bridge really comes alive when fully illuminated at night. The top level of the bridge has a pedestrian walkway that allows you to cross the bridge on foot. If you’ve come up as high as the monastery, you’re on the right level to access it. It’s worth a walk across to experience looking down at the surprisingly dizzying drop to the river far below.

Once you’ve crossed back to the north side, a further moderate walk back up the hill will return you to where the day began, if desired.

For even more inspiration to help you plan your trip, check out some of these other best things to do in Porto.

Porto at Night

Porto has an enormous variety of restaurants, bars and nightclubs to continue the fun into the evening. There are no shortage of places to stop and relax for a while. The best way is probably just to explore and see what you find. For us, we brought our kids along so our day had reached its conclusion. I reckon we’ll have to return some day without them!

The enormous influx of tourists means that there are also unsurprisingly no shortage of places to stay. I always find a good option with kids are serviced apartments that allow you some of your own space. The centrally located Oporto Invite – River View Apartments offer pleasant, reasonably priced, air conditioned apartments, with (as the name suggests), Douro River views.

Around Porto

If staying for longer (or touring as we were), the area around Porto offers some interesting options for other days out or places to visit.

Costa Verde (or ‘Green Coast’)

The stretch of coastline that extends north from Porto up towards the Spanish border is known as the Costa Verde, or Green Coast. It is characterised by long, windswept sandy beaches with waves crashing in from the Atlantic Ocean. A summer favourite with Portuguese holiday-makers, the area and its towns remain relatively unknown to foreign tourists.

The town of Vila do Conde is one such place. It boasts several beaches, sand dunes with boardwalk, a full-size replica 16th century Portuguese ship (the Nau Quinhentista), medieval raised aqueduct, large parks and children’s playgrounds. Modern and regular Metro trains link right into the centre of Porto, making this actually a great option for a place to stay for a full length family holiday in the region. The local restaurants are also decent and very affordable. We really liked the Solar do Terreiro restaurant right in the town centre, who served us up a tasty three course set menu consisting of several choices along with a decent amount of delicious Portuguese wine, all in friendly surroundings for under €15 a head.

Heading further north still brings you to larger town of Viana do Castelo, with its sandy beach and paved esplanade that is lined with bars and restaurants along the seafront.

Douro Valley

The picturesque River Douro winds its way inland and uphill towards the UNESCO World Heritage vineyards of the Alto Douro Valley, one of the very oldest and continuously used areas of wine production anywhere in the world. Once a dangerous trip for the port traders, the river has been calmed under the influence of human engineering to something that is instead calm and serene. The Douro Valley wine area is characterised by enormous terraced hillsides of grape vines, with the subtle variations in soil type and altitude allowing for the cultivation of all of the different unique, local grape varieties that must be used for the making of Douro labelled wine. Once famous only for port wine, the area is now also internationally respected for its production of other wines of all types. The whole area really is incredibly beautiful. Visit in the autumn for a chance to witness the spectacle of the changing colours on the hillsides, as the vine leaves turn red.

Douro Valley trips, either by boat or by road, can be arranged from Porto. If visiting in a camper, as we were, don’t miss the chance to stay on one of the many vineyards that allow visitors. The excellent Quinta da Padrela allows guests to stay for free in their vans on their estate. They also rent a guesthouse. You are free to explore the vines and the estate owner can also provide an evening tasting session, that is presented along with some fascinating local history. The wines are delicious and their olive oil is incredible.

If planning a longer stay, be sure to check out some of these best wineries in the Douro Valley.

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Guimarães

Situated inland, northeast of Porto, is the UNESCO World Heritage listed city of Guimarães. Characterised by its well preserved city centre of medieval buildings, the city makes a nice outing and change of pace from the busy streets of Porto. The old city feels very quaint, all the while overlooked by the imposing 10th century Guimarães Castle that sits atop a hillside.

For a fun activity for kids, check out the Centro Ciência Viva de Guimarães (or Science museum). Set in a beautifully restored, historic former tannery, the museum has a a fun range of exhibits for children that relate to science, many of which allow for plenty of hands-on experience. The guides are English speaking and very friendly. Our kids had a blast and it was a perfect way to fill some time on a rainy day.

In Summary

The city of Porto and the surrounding area have so much to offer visitors. It is no surprise that tourist numbers have sky-rocketed in recent years, as the city has successfully elevated itself to being perceived as a must-see location on the European tour. Hopefully ways can be found going forwards to sustainably balance the needs of all these visitors with those of the locals, while at the same time managing to preserve all of the city’s incredible medieval heritage.

Despite feeling busy at times, I’d still fully recommend the city to visitors of all kinds as a great option for a short city break. Although perhaps tailored more towards adult guests, we had a fun time with our kids and found everyone was extremely friendly and welcoming towards them. The surrounding nearby beaches and towns also make the wider area an interesting alternative to other regions such as the Algarve, as a potential Portuguese family holiday destination.

Add to that a wealth of great food options, from Michelin Star dining down to casual outdoor cafe terraces, and you’ll see there really is so much to see and do. It’s all there just waiting to be explored. Oh, and of course don’t forget the port wine. Just watch how much of it you’re tasting, or else your head won’t thank you in the morning!

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